You are what you wear. And never has the adage rung truer than in the sustainability stakes. In the quest for reduced carbon footprints and fabrics that degrade seamlessly into the environment at the end of their lifecycle, designers and inventors are casting their nets wide beyond the usual suspects. The result? An imaginative new look at biodegradable waste that translates into a second lease of life as sustainable yarns and fibres. Kinder to the environment and your wardrobe as well, what’s not to love?
Orange peels
The antioxidant benefits of oranges have made them a mainstay in beauty routines around the world, and now it might be time to invite them into your wardrobe as well. The brainchild of two Sicilian students, Adriana Santanocito and Enrica Arenaby, the fabric was developed in response to the waste management of the one million ton of orange peels generated in Italy every year. The patented fabric is created by extracting citrus cellulose from the peels, which is then spun into yarn and can nourish the skin through the absorption of Vitamin C and natural oils. Since its inception, the circular fibre has found a fan on the runway and high street alike, with a roster of collaborations that encompasses Salvatore Ferragamo and H&M.
Fish skin
There’s plenty that can be found in the bylanes of Iceland—including a solution to the ethical conundrum of animal-procured leather. Indeed, a chance stroll down the markets of Reykjavík introduced Mayur Davda-Shah, founder of a conscious handbag label, to premium leather constructed from fish skin. As a sustainable alternative to animal hide, salmon leather is created by repurposing discarded fish skin to achieve the textural feel of conventional snakeskin leather.
Pineapple leaves
The wasted leaves of pineapple find a fresh lease of life with Pinatex, a UK-based corporation that is redirecting the fruit’s by-products from the landfill. Founded by leather goods expert Dr Carmen Hijosa, the fabric was developed as a sustainable alternative to mass produced leather. Plant leaves are collected after the pineapple harvest and then sent through a mechanical process to create a non-woven mesh. The fabric thus produced lays claim to minimal environmental impact and has a found a fan in Hugo Boss, H&M and more.
Potatoes
Plastic has long served as an environmental dilemma for the sustainability industry, but the quest for solutions is being led by a host of new-age bioplastics—including a potato-based alternative produced by UK-based company, Chip[s] Board. Upon sourcing the discarded potato peels from frozen food giant, McCain Foods, a biodegradable alternative to plastic is produced by upcycling the peelings. Titled Parablex, the material has found a host of takers across the fashion and accessories industry, and can today be found as glass frames for Cubitt’s London and buttons for designer Isabel Fletcher.
Seaweed
Beside serving as the hero ingredient of sushi, seaweed offers a host of benefits for your sustainability efforts as well. Further proof can be found with European casualwear label, Pangaia that is harnessing naturally grown seaweed through regenerative processes that ensure minimal impact on its habitat. It is then spun into a cellulose fibre and reported to biodegrade seamlessly into the environment at the end of its life. The good news doesn’t end there—seaweed retains its nutrients through the process and offers faster moisture absorption than conventional cotton.
Grapes
The quest for ethical alternatives to leather continues with Vegea, an Italy-based eco-friendly endeavour, that is tapping into the virtues of the discarded by-products during the wine-making process to power its vegan version. Dubbed as wine leather, the fabric utilises the seed, skin and stalk of the grapes that would have been otherwise discarded. At the end of its lifecycle, the fabric can be recycled to produce more wine leather. Today, it can be spotted everywhere from over-the-knee boots at H&M to Marni’s autumn/winter 2020 runway.
Rose stems
Rose stems, petals and other waste gathered from rose bushes serve as the muse for rose sylk, a plant-based fabric that turns these by-products into a cellulose fibre. While offering the same lustre and smoothness as conventional silk, it has the upper hand as an eco-friendly alternative. The fabric has since earned a spot on the radar of Barbie Ferreira and Charli XCX through New York-based label, Collina Strada’s ready-to-wear separates.
Source: https://www.vogue.in/