In November last year, Schoeller Textil scooped the Design Preis Schweiz 2017/18 in the textile category for its heated fabric E-soft-shell. The fabric is designed to be sold off the roll, and can be cut to size without affecting the embedded technology. It is primarily suited to clothing for outdoor activities and motorcycling.
Fabrics that can keep us pleasantly warm in winter are constantly trending in the textile industry as manufacturers seek to improve the comfort of their garments. And, according to the Design Preis jury, projects in this field have hardly made it beyond the development and trial phase. Until now.
According to Dagmar Signer, from Schoeller Textil’s marketing and communications department, E-soft-shell is an ongoing development based on nearly three years of research. “The breakthrough was led by Schoeller’s synergy of competencies in warp-knitting materials, woven technology, finishing technology – for example, with our corkshell technology – and now also competence in electronics,” she says. “And to this, we provided additional knowledge from our international network of partners.”
The corkshell technology she speaks of is made of an FSC-certified cork granulate that is a by-product in the manufacturing of wine corks. The natural granulate is pulverised and firmly anchored as a coating in a special process patented by Schoeller. All fabrics produced from the technology are said to be water and wind repelling, highly breathable, and available in both two-way and four-way stretch qualities.
Finding the right yarns and suitable connections for E-soft-shell was, according to Signer, a ‘significant challenge’. And looking at the complex construction of the fabric, it’s easy to see why. E-soft-shell is a laminate consisting of bi-elastic tissue, machine lining, and the functional corkshell coating. The heating technology is integrated with the fabric in a diamond-shaped geometrical pattern. It is based on metallic yarns, making it possible for the material to be evenly heated at standard voltages. “We are continuing to develop elements of the E-soft-shell and have dedicated ongoing R&D resources to the project, always working to improve the material,” she says.
This commitment to R&D played a big part in Schoeller’s award win, which Signer explains will encourage the company to keep on innovating. “Our team was very honoured to have been able to represent the pinnacle of Switzerland’s design innovation strength,” she says. “We were also very humbled by the Design Preis Schweiz jury’s specific recognition that ‘electrically heated clothing has undoubtedly been a longstanding dream of humanity, and it has been a challenge that many textile specialists have grappled with in recent years. This achievement demonstrates yet again the expertise and innovative strength of the Swiss textile industry’.”
She adds that since introducing E-soft-shell to the market, Schoeller has received ‘a significant number of enquiries’. In addition, the company is developing the fabric further by broadening its application areas. For instance, the fashion sector has already been earmarked as a potential end-use, and Signer reveals that E-soft-shell could be developed as a technical textile in the workwear category, too.
Functional trends
According to Signer, Schoeller’s latest collection of technical fabrics responds to the increasing consumer demand for multi-functional garments, particularly where fashion is concerned. “Fashion and performance continue to intersect more and more, and this requires special functions for textiles,” she says. “Our Cosmopolitan collection features fabrics specifically designed for an active, modern lifestyle, creating versatile apparel for today and tomorrow. Tested under extreme conditions by alpine athletes, as well as city bike commuters, these textiles are perfect for everyday life which, let’s face it, can be very challenging.”
Another important topic noted by Signer is, of course, sustainability; something that has “run deeply with the brand since its inception”. Examples of this sustainable principle include special finishes such as Schoeller’s bio-based 3XDRY Bio and PFC-free ecorepel, as well as its Bluesign-approved fabrics and its involvement in the Wear2Wear closed-loop industry partnership – a European initiative formed of five companies representing each phase of the recycling process.
Schoeller Textil will demonstrate its commitment to sustainability and functionality at ISPO Munich, the annual sporting goods trade fair, which will be held on 28-31 January 2018. The company will provide an overview of its 2019/20 Winter Collection, which focuses on lifestyle. Net-like structures, metallic sheen, concealed safety, naturally-warming fabrics with Nilit Heat yarn made of coffee charcoal, and PFC-free bio technologies based on renewable raw materials are just some of the highlights of the collection, says Signer.
Source: www.wtin.com