DNA markers are both invisible and resistant to environmental factors, making them an ideal tool for traceability and anti-fraud measures.
The textile companies, brands and even researchers often find it a daunting task to identify the type of fibres used in textiles, such as cotton, wool, silk, or synthetic materials and are not able to determine if they are sourced sustainably and ethically. And, at a time, when traceability is something most of the responsible organisations are looking to embrace to make their fabric more authentically sourced, the identification of fibres/yarns becomes even more imperative.
However, a groundbreaking solution has emerged in recent years – DNA marking technology. The DNA marker technique is a tool to combat fraud in the textile industry by ensuring that the materials used in a product match the label claims. Moreover, DNA markers can also help trace the origin of a textile, including the geographic region where the fibres were grown and the specific farm or plantation where they were produced.
Understanding DNA Marking Technology
DNA marking technology involves the incorporation of unique DNA markers into textile fibres during the manufacturing process. These markers serve as a molecular fingerprint that can be used to identify and authenticate the textile throughout its lifecycle. The process typically begins with the extraction and isolation of specific DNA sequences which are then synthesised and incorporated into the textile fibres. These DNA markers are both invisible and resistant to environmental factors, making them an ideal tool for traceability and anti-fraud measures.
| Few companies that are providing DNA marking technologies and Forensic Science-based traceability solutions include Haelixa, Applied DNA Sciences, Oritain, FiberTrace, Textile Genesis, Source Certain International, DNA Gensee, IdentiGEN, SafeTraces, ADNAS, UNIFI, Olnica, Digimarc and In-Code Technologies. |
Different Unique Identifiers that Work as Alternate to DNA Marking
Various companies and technologies offer different methods for marking DNA or other unique identifiers in products. Apart from DNA marking, other techniques exist but the choice of technology depends on factors such as the level of security needed, cost considerations, ease of integration into existing processes and the desired level of traceability and authenticity verification. Different industries and companies may opt for different methods based on their specific requirements.
Microtaggant Marking: Some companies use microtaggants, which are tiny particles or codes that are embedded into products during manufacturing. These can be invisible to the naked eye and are difficult to replicate. They can include elements like microdots, nanoparticles or chemical markers.
| Science-based anti-counterfeiting systems help to ensure authenticity and provide a means for traceability as products are made from fibre into fabric. For example, a unique plant-based DNA marker can help by tagging a product at the source, which allows it to be authenticated at any point in the supply chain. This is designed to help companies track-and-trace their products and assure their customers that their products are made of exactly what is stated on the label. So, if customers are concerned that their sweaters are fake or that they may not be 100 percent cashmere like the labels say they are, the end products can be tested for the DNA marker to see if they are in fact the true products. |
NFC and RFID: Near Field Communication (NFC) and Radio-Frequency Identification (RFID) are technologies that use small chips or tags to store and transmit data wirelessly. These chips can be embedded in products and can be scanned or read using compatible devices.
Holograms and Security Labels: Holograms and security labels with unique patterns, colours or features can be affixed to products. These labels can be difficult to reproduce accurately and can serve as a visual indicator of authenticity.
Blockchain and Digital Certificates: Blockchain technology can be used to create a secure and immutable record of a product’s journey through the supply chain. Digital certificates or cryptographic signatures can be associated with products to ensure authenticity.
Invisible Inks and UV Markers: Special inks that are only visible under certain lighting conditions, such as ultraviolet (UV) light, can be used to mark products discreetly.
QR Codes: Quick Response (QR) codes can be printed on products and scanned using smartphones or other devices. These codes can link to digital information about the product’s authenticity and origin.
DNA Marking Technology is gaining space in the textile industry
The leading brands and retailers such as Lacoste, H&M, Bestseller, Kering and manufacturers such as Himatsingka, Pratibha Syntex (India), Diamond Denim, Soorty Denim, Artistic Apparels (Pakistan) and ORTA (Turkey) amongst others have successfully launched small-scale and large-scale projects to trace the materials, fibre origin and finished products through DNA-based technology.
One of such science-based tracing is being done by British Wool – a UK-based leading textile firm. By using forensic science to analyse authentic British wool, the technology – offered by Oritain – has gathered data that tells them exactly how wool from the UK looks like. With this information at hand, the technology then analyses wool throughout the supply chain, comparing the data against the original ‘Origin Fingerprint’ it created to determine if the new samples are consistent with authentic British wool. A match suggests genuine British wool, while an inconsistent result suggests a level of tampering, blending or adulteration.
Ganesha Ecosphere Ltd., the largest recycled polyester (rPET) fibre producer in India, uses CertainT-verified rPET to provide assurance about the raw material to textile and apparel customers. Ganesha also employs SigNature T-100, enabling rPET source material to be quantified in polyester blends by the CertainT platform.
Importantly, even the thread industry is using DNA technology to check authenticity and stop counterfeiting. A&E Gütermann – the world’s leading thread manufacturer – has teamed up with Applied DNA Sciences to develop a solution to protect brand integrity with developed authentic thread products, made and delivered anywhere its customers do business. The result is Integrity advanced identification of sewing threads. Integrity is an innovative and economical solution for brands and retailers to authenticate and validate their products, anywhere within their supply chains, through a common component – sewing thread.
During a recent visit to A&E Gütermann’s factory, Team Apparel Resources (AR) found out that the company provides swabs to factories as well as buyers to check authenticity of threads in any garment at any point of time. These swabs, when dipped in special purpose liquid to identify molecules, need to run around 10 times on the seams and in a few seconds, there will an appearance of neon blue colour. If the colour doesn’t appear, it means the thread used in the seam is not supplied by A&E Gütermann.
Issues that science-based traceability technology can address
Issue 1: It’s difficult for brands and companies to do Authenticity Verification
The International Trade Centre (ITC) estimates that the US $ 461 billion sector of fake clothing and shoes makes up around 7 per cent of all counterfeit items sold globally! The difficulties that clothing manufacturers encounter are varied, ranging from the effect on their brand to the monetary loss of sales. Alongside, with counterfeit textiles flooding the market, consumers and businesses alike face the risk of purchasing products that do not meet the claimed quality or ethical standards.
One of the primary benefits of DNA marking technology in textiles is the ability to verify the authenticity of the materials used in a product and stop counterfeiting. DNA markers enable manufacturers and retailers to confirm whether the fibre composition matches the label claims, thereby preventing fraud in the industry.
For instance, if a product is labelled as 100 per cent organic cotton, DNA markers can validate this claim by confirming the presence of organic cotton DNA within textiles. This assurance not only safeguards consumers but also upholds the integrity of brands committed to ethical sourcing and production.
One of such instances happened back in 2020-21 on a large scale when Indian organic cotton industry came under rigorous scanning for its organic cotton frauds! According to Textile Exchange, a leading organic proponent, organic cotton production in India alone grew 48 per cent in FY ’21 and contributed to around half of the world’s production! However, as per various reports, half of this production was ‘fake’ and not credible. DNA marking technology can do substantial wonders here.
Issue 2: Traceability of fibre origin
Imagine a brand purchasing bulk of woollen sweaters from a vendor and being not able to trace its origin – whether the wool fibre was sourced from pre-decided family-owned sheep farm in Australia (just for instance) or from a different vendor!
Besides, within the textile industry, a lot of unethical practices have been inherent such as unauthorised blending of fibres or mislabelling of products. This not only leads consumers to purchase subpar or unethical products but also fails to maintain the credibility of businesses committed to responsible practices.
Beyond authenticity, DNA marking technology also offers the remarkable capability to trace the origin of textiles. By analysing the DNA markers embedded in a textile, it becomes possible to pinpoint the geographic region where the fibres were grown and even identify the specific farm or plantation where they were produced. This level of traceability enhances supply chain transparency and supports sustainable and ethical sourcing practices. Such traceability not only empowers consumers with information about the products they buy but also incentivises responsible sourcing practices within the textile industry.
Issue 3: Quality assurance of textiles is a daunting task!
In addition to combating fraud and improving traceability, DNA markers are also being used for quality assurance. By regularly testing textiles throughout the supply chain, manufacturers can ensure that the materials maintain their intended quality and performance characteristics. If there are deviations in the composition of materials or in the manufacturing process, the DNA markers can alert quality control teams. This proactive approach helps prevent substandard products from reaching the market, reducing waste and enhancing customer satisfaction.
However, the DNA marking technology can vary in its implementation and complexity. The verification process may differ based on the specific method used for DNA encoding and analysis, as well as the level of security required for the application. Companies like Applied DNA Sciences and SigNature T DNA are known for providing DNA-based solutions for anti-counterfeiting, traceability and authentication in textiles and other industries. These companies offer technologies that involve embedding DNA markers at the fibre or material level during the manufacturing process.
Source: https://apparelresources.com/