Key takeaways
- Technical readiness level (TRL) 4/5
- Uses existing jacquard looms to reduce manufacturing costs by 50%
- Integrates artificial intelligence (AI) in the design stage to cut down on time and resources
- Claims no jobs will be replaced
- Aims to launch a pilot factory by early 2027
A group of researchers from Northumbria University have created a process of 3D weaving with advancements in artificial intelligence (AI). WTiN explores the claims and technology used.
A team of researchers at Northumbria University, led by Dr Yuyuan Shi, are redesigning garment manufacturing by using AI to cut down traditional cut-and-sew steps.
Using three-dimensional (3D) weaving through the project RE-FAB, the team are applying advanced computer-aided (CAD) and computer-aided manufacturing (CAM) software to create 3D apparel directly on jacquard looms, in a bid to eliminate material waste and traditional sewing.
Shi says: “Through the 3D weaving innovation we are trying to redesign the garment manufacturing process.”
Why cut-and-sew technology is not efficient
Cut-and-sew technology is the primary technique for making two-dimensional (2D) sheet fabrics into 3D shell clothing forms. The process, Shi says, has existed for about 200 years and although it has developed, she feels there are gaps in the process, for example it can produce textile waste of up to 15-40% according to studies from the European Parliament.
“What we are doing is using 3D weaving to shape the yarn into a 3D garment in a single step,” Shi explains. “This will reduce, or replace, almost all of the garment’s manufacturing process from six steps into one.”
Why 3D weaving is better
Traditional cut-and-sew would see a factory weave a roll of fabric using a loom, before a different factory bought it to cut up and stitch the pieces together on a sewing machine.
Weaving technology has existed for many years, but it has mainly been used in technical textiles for performance and medical applications, according to Shi.
3D weaving combines the process of making a textile with the process of making of a garment. In the act of weaving yarns together to make a fabric, 3D weaving machines create the garments itself.
Shi says that it has been used in the engineering industry but has “become more connected with the fashion industry”.
This has happened in the past five years. She adds: “Currently, we are working on software mainly for digital infrastructure. We are building, designing and manufacturing on the same software.”
RE-FAB claims
The Re-Fab solution is aimed to be faster, cheaper and greener than traditional manufacturing processes, enabling a rise in productivity, reduction in manufacturing costs by 50% and a lower carbon footprint – by 25% – while also enabling local manufacturing.
This, however, will need to be proved when the technology launches in industry. But for now, that is the aim of the researchers.
RE-FAB enables manufacturers to cut down on processing steps. The AI technology allows designers to directly output their garment design onto a loom ready file.
Shi says this addresses a gap in industry knowledge, by combining the weaver’s and the fashion technician’s knowledge and skillset, which would otherwise have been unknown to one another.
“This is a big gap. Fortunately, I have a fashion and engineering background, plus experience in 3D weaving, which is why I can bring these two disciplines together.”
Shi says RE-FAB cuts waste and improves efficiency because the team are repurposing jacquard looms, meaning there is no need for new infrastructure or new machinery, which also cuts costs.
RE-FAB technology
Re-Fab builds upon existing 3D weaving technologies through the integration of AI, which has been incorporated to support the designer in transferring their vision into the garment.
Shi has cited research that analysed 3D digital software, such as CLO3D, which was employed as a digital tool to reduce material waste in the pattern construction trial-and-error process. She has built on this with Re-Fab to be a tool used by the designer and weaving technician to enhance their design and construction process.
“We don’t want to replace the designer or the weaving technician job,” says Shi. “We want to bring this technology to them to make it easier to design garments.”
The theory is for the designers and weavers to use the AI system to select colours and styles and see if 3D construction will work from a design perspective. This reduces the going back-and-forth, allowing them to experiment on a digital platform without creating material waste and reduces time.
Source: https://www.wtin.com/